30 Jun Geres – Portugal’s only National Park
I meant to stay two days; stayed five. After a train to Braga (hour and half) then a bus (total about 10 euros), that weaved back and forth up and up the mountain--stopping at every...
June 2013
24 Jun Sao Juan — a fresh start
The week I arrived in Porto, colourful flower arches straddled the streets in preparation for Sao Juan Day. Also the start of summer solstice, on June 23 everyone eats salted barbecued sardines and caldo verde (cabbage and potato soup) followed by pastries.
Hammer-time!
Then, everyone takes to the streets hopping from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, all night, in search of a dance, a drink or chance to bop passerby's on the head with a plastic hammer.
11 Jun Cod by another name
Born in Newfoundland, with a Newfie ma, then moving to Nova Scotia, I ate my share of cod fish as a child. Salted cod, cod tongues.... If you're Portuguese, who historically sailed over to our Grand Banks to fish, then the same applies. Since arriving here, I've heard more than one person say: "did you know we have 1001 ways to serve cod?" In Mark Kurlansky's book, Cod: A Biography of The Fish That Changed the World, he talks about this incorrigible fish that was prized for its nutrition, made of 80% protein, and fortitude: it hung on until it was fished to almost death. The Newfoundland moratorium over 20 years ago was done, hoping, it would bring the fish back.10 Jun Porto: pastries and Port
Arrived on June 10. It's Portugal Day and the town of Porto is shut down--except for cafes serving port (fortified sweet brandy wine) and pastries like famous custard tarts (pasteis de Belem). Curse my luck!
Arriving on little sleep, luckily, getting to my apartment was easy--a short half hour metro trip.
What a concept: a metro joining the airport to the city centre (psst, Toronto, that's a dig).