Ok, arrived very late and here is what I know about this city.
It is a mixture of Paris cafes (they are everywhere), and Slavic charm and history. Oddly enough, some cafes only serve drinks--absolutely no food. Hmm. And, it seems that everyone smokes. Saw a pregnant woman puffing away. Another thing: everyone speaks English. (everyone as in anyone I stopped for directions).
It is simple ingredients: looks like cornmeal type of flour, and four small chicken egg whites. Oh, and fresh saffron, which turns the flour yellow.
Marcello's father grows it; he used to be a farmer. Then, add a small glass of water into the mixer.
So, it was my Spanish room mate's last night. So, for lunch we went to a restaurant called Barcelona! You must make reservations (only open for lunch) because the chef gets fresh seafood from the market daily and needs to know how many to feed! That is fresh.
The place feels like a kitchen.
Our anti pasti consisted of octopus, squid, fish of all kinds in vinegar etc...
Then---pasta for the main.
Full? Ah yeah, bloated woman ovah-here.
America has Western ghost towns; Sardinia has abandoned mining villages.
On the southern west coast, La Costa Delle Miniere (Coast of the Mines) is a stream of some two dozen abandoned mines; it's creepy. Giant stone buildings built into the stone – rocks chipping away year after year. Rusted metal conveyors bent and misshapen. On my bike trip we encountered them daily.
South of the town of Buggeru, the abandoned mines cover about 3,500 kilometers and 85 different municipalities-- many coastal; it's a UNESCO heritage site.